Australia's most feared restaurant critic, Matthew Evans, has chucked in his city life for small farm living in Tasmania, that small triangle at the bottom of Australia. Having spent most of his life writing about what is good food, he now wants to go to the source; to find the best local produce, and to rear and grow it himself; to get pigs, chooks, sheep and a cow; to grow things for the plate, to have the farmhouse table groaning under platters of food; to have people over to share in the spo